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    March 31

    It's a holiday in Cambodia, it's tough, kid, but it's life, it's a holiday in Cambodia, don't forget to pack a wife...

    So, here I am in Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia!

    I arrived yesterday evening after a six-hour bus ride from Saigon... which cost equivalent of just six quid!

    It was quite an interesting journey, not least the point where we had to cross the Vietnam-Cambodia border. Here, the border guards made us go through the rather pointless ritual of getting off the bus and walking the few metres over the border on foot... before letting us get back on board again!

    Bizarre...

    One thing that quickly became apparent as we pushed on into Cambodia is that the traffic here is nowhere near as bad as it is in Vietnam. That said, you do get loads of minibuses travelling along with sometimes as many as 20 people sat on the roof!

    And the roads themselves are pretty poor. In a lot of places, they're little more than dirt tracks, and only wide enough in some places for one vehicle.

    Needless to say, progress to Phnom Penh seemed slow. I can't say I was too bothered though, as the countryside was interesting to look at. It was all very green, with miles upon miles of small villages consisting largely of straw huts and basic wooden shack-style houss - a lot of them on stilts.

    We also saw loads of ornate temples, while the people generally seemed to be busy working away in the fields, tending to crops and cattle. It all seemed very peaceful - indeed, it was hard to believe really that we were in a country that has had such a troubled recent past.

    Eventually we rolled up into the city, which is quite distinctive in its look and feel. With Camdodia having previously been a French colony, there's a definite Parisian feel about the place - with loads of long, straight boulevards.

    When our coach finally reached the bus station in the late afternoon, the next task was to find somewhere to stay.

    By this time, I'd teamed up with the lovely Sarah, a 23-year-old Scottish lass who I'd gotten chatting to during the journey... who had impressed me no end by casually informing me that she knew one of the members of Scottish indie legends Belle and Sebastian!

    Having both done our homework on 'places to go' in Phnom Penh, we decided to head to Boeng Kak - a huge lake just outside the city centre, which is where most of the city's cheap guest houses are located.

    And getting transport the lake wasn't difficult - because as soon as we stepped off the bus, Sarah and me found ourselves besieged by about a million 'tuk tuk' drivers!

    'The 'tuk tuk', for those not in the know, is basically a motorbike with a trailer - and we duly blagged a free lift in one of them to the lake!

    The 'deal' here was that our driver would drop us off at a particular guest house... and then if we liked the look of it and elected to stay there, he'd get commission from them.

    As it turned out, the guest house in question was a really cool place, in a shambolic sort of way - essentially a higgledy-piggledy collection of tin shacks built on a wooden verandah right on the edge of the lake.

    Importantly, it also had its own outdoor bar-cum-restaurant, enabling guests to lie in hammocks and enjoy stunning views of the lake!

    The staff were also ridiculously friendly, and the place was cheap as chips too - charging just five US dollars per night for a room.

    Needless to say, we quickly elected to check in! In fact, we'd dumped our bags in our room and were sat on the verandah enjoying cold beers less than ten minutes after having stepped off the bus!

    Surely some kind of record?!

    Sarah and me proceeded to spend a very enjoyable evening in which we watched the sunset from the verandah and then proceeded to get ridiculously pissed on cheap vodka!

    So, a good start to the Cambodian adventure! I've got a feeling I'm going to like it here..!

    March 29

    War! Huh! Good God, y'all! What is it good for? Absolutely nuffin'! Say it again, yeah...

    Well, they say you should be careful what you wish for – and this is an old saying well and truly borne out by my arrival here in Saigon… or Ho Chi Minh City, as the place is also known.

    Let me explain…

    Now as regular readers of my witterings will know, I had a fantastic time up in Hanoi. However, one thing I often found myself lamenting while I was there was the fact that the weather wasn’t brilliant.

    Sure, it was far from freezing. But there wasn’t much sun… and quite a bit of rain.

    Down here in Saigon though, we’re getting on for being 1,000 miles nearer the equator.

    And don’t I just know it – cos it’s bloody boiling!

    And it’s not just ‘hot hot’ either. It’s also really humid – so much so, that having a shower seems almost futile… as you just know you’ll be a sweaty mess again within a matter of minutes.

    Now I’m usually the last person to be complaining about this sort of thing. However, places where I’ve been before where the weather’s like this have always been by the sea – and so you always have the option of being able to dive into the water and cool off.

    Saigon, however, is bloody miles from the sea. So I’ve been having to literally sweat it out here…

    Still, ming factor aside, what have I made of Saigon?

    Well like Hanoi, there’s more motorbikes here than a Meat Loaf wet dream. And again, most of their drivers seem to have only a tenuous grasp as to which side of the road they ought to be driving on! 

    Generally though, Saigon just doesn’t have the same charm as Hanoi. I was sort of hoping that wandering the streets here would be a bit like being in the middle of n all-singing, all-dancing production of ‘Miss Saigon’! Far from it though – it’s simply a much bigger, blander and more ‘westernised’ version of Hanoi – with lots of skyscrapers and even several KFC restaurants here.

    As a tourist, you also seem to get much more hassle here than you do in Hanoi. Whenever I’ve been wandering round the city, I’ve been accosted literally every ten yards by someone trying to get me to take a lift in their rickshaw or on their motorbike.

    Now I actually love wandering around unfamiliar places on foot – yet with the motorbike being central to the Vietnamese way of life, the motorbike dudes just don’t seem to be able to comprehend this!

    And their constant pestering is starting to get on my tits a bit…

    On a brighter note, I have discovered a new favourite drink whilst here, which has knocked even the hallowed avocado smoothie off its pedastal! Yes, coconut juice – which is basically a coconut with a hole drilled in the top, which you then suck the juice from with a straw. Absolutely delicious…

    Meanwhile, the spectre of the Vietnam war hangs much heavier over Saigon than it does Hanoi. Wander over to the Saigon River, and there are still disused anti-aircraft guns dotted across the banks. And the city’s War Remnants Museum is a truly sobering place - which really brings home the sheer horror of not just the Vietnam War, but of any war.

    As well as tanks and planes, exhibits at the museum include jars containing stillborn babies that whose bodies are hideously deformed as a result of American napalm attacks. 

    This morning, I also went on a bus trip some 50 miles out of the city to a part of the jungle where a great deal of fighting took place during the Vietnam War. 

    The biggest attraction on this trip was a chance to have a look at a section of the Co Chi Tunnels – a sophisticated labyrinth of underground corridors dug beneath the jungle by the Vietnamese guerrilla soldiers, which they used to evade their American attackers.

    The tunnels were actually a major thorn in the side for the Americans during the war; and despite constant attempts, they failed repeatedly to destroy them. Amazingly, some of the corridors measure just 60cm by 60cm – and all in all, there’s around 150 miles of interlinked passages, some of them up to ten metres under ground. Those of us on the trip got the opportunity to check out a 90-metre section, starting with a vertical drop at ground level –  though we were only allowed to go down if our guide was sufficiently convinced that we had a waist size of no more the 34 inches!

    This made me wonder whether any hapless tourists have ever actually ended up getting stuck in the tunnels! Happily, I was deemed sufficiently slender to be given the nod – and whilst an interesting experience, the two-minute crawl was a deeply claustrophobic and sweaty experience. It’s amazing to think really that, at one point, 16,000 Vietnamese soldiers were pretty much living permanently in the tunnels, sometimes not emerging into the light for weeks at a time.

    Other stuff that we got to see in the jungle included the shell of an American tank destroyed by a land mine, a giant bomb crater, and some examples of ‘booby traps’ that the Vietnamese used to fill the jungle with to try and thwart the GIs. Indeed, it’s amazing really, given that the Americans were busy unleashing chemical warefare, the Vietnamese were still using such relatively primitive methods as covered pits lined with bamboo spears.

    Meanwhile, the trip also saw me get the chance to blast a round of bullets from a huge machine gun that was actually used in the war!

    Now I must say, with my visit to the War Remnants Museum the previous day having given me a stark reminder of the horrors that can be wreaked by the machines of war, it all felt slightly crass as I lined up behind the gun ready to take my turn.

    But in the end, I just thought “Fuck it” – after all, whether or not we like to admit it, there’s a bit of Action Man in us all. And the thing certainly made a satisfying racket as I pumped my ten bullets in the vague direction of the targets set up in the distance!

    All in all though, after just a couple of days, I feel like I’ve had my fill of Saigon – and as such, I’ve decided to move on tomorrow. Specifically, I’ll be getting a bus across the border into Cambodia… which spells the end of my time here in Vietnam.

    And though Saigon hasn’t really rocked my world as much as Hanoi did, I am sad in a lot of ways to be leaving. I’ve found Vietnam to be an amazing country… mainly because of the people.

    Though, as I said earlier, I’ve felt a bit harassed in Saigon, the people in this country have generally demonstrated incredible spirit and warmth… and it’s been fascinating to get a little glimpse into their lives.

    They’re an incredibly close-knit bunch, the Vietnamese – indeed, it’s not uncommon to see two male friends here walking down the street hand-in-hand. Can’t quite see that catching on in the UK somehow, given that most British blokes won’t even admit to liking the Scissor Sisters out of fear that “people might think ahm fookin’ gay or summat!

    Oh, and one thing I’ve never mentioned before is the fact that the Vietnamese are obessed with English football!

    The grub here is great too – not least some of the ‘street food’.  Probably the nicest thing I’ve eaten while I’ve been here was an omlette, which an old lady cooked for me practically in the gutter on a tiny gas stove.

    That said, Vietnam certainly isn’t without its faults. For one, the pollution here is absolutely horrendous. As someone who suffers from mild asthma, I usually find myself needing to use my Ventolin inhaler once every couple of months. Yet here, I’ve been chugging on it probably more than Pete Doherty takes hits on his crack pipe!

    The air quality in Hanoi was particularly bad. Throughout my time there, the city seemed to be shrouded in a permanent haze – and I couldn’t tell if this was actual mist, or just smog!

    Though to be fair, it definitely added to the atmosphere of the city!

    In terms of other faults meanwhile, under the Communist regime here in Vietnam there’s no such thing as democracy or a free press – yes, the Government actually controls what goes in all the newspapers. And by all accounts, this is just about as corrupt a place as there is on earth.

    Oh, and the Vietnamese are known to eat dogs too! And the regular power cuts can get kind of annoying as well – as they always seem to bloody happen when you’re in the middle of typing a long blog entry..!

     Still, if you can handle all these things – and the constant swarm of motorbikes! - I would heartily recommend a visit to Vietnam. I’d try and get here sooner rather than later though, as the place is becoming ‘westernised’ at a rapid rate - and I dare say the characteristics that made Hanoi so special to me will probably disappear in time as more skyscrapers are built, and McDonalds restaurants start to appear. I only hope that, in the face of increasing investment in the country, it won’t be a case of the rich becoming richer and the poor becoming poorer…

    March 28

    One day, you'll look, to see I've gone. Cos tomorrow may rain, so I'll follow the sun...

    Well, I’ve never been one to let grass grow under my feet for too long – and so after nearly two weeks, I bade farewell on Monday to Hanoi, in order to make the long journey south to the city of Saigon.  

    I must say, I was sad to leave Hanoi, as I truly did love the place – so much so that my stay in the city ended up being much longer than the three or four days than I’d initially planned.

    Hanoi is  quite simply a fascinating place. I think I could quite happily spend the rest of my life there, simply wandering the narrow streets and just observing all the chaos and day-to-day-goings on.

    Here’s just a few of the more random things I saw in the city’s streets that I haven’t mentioned already in previous updates…

    -  -       Two dogs merrily humping in the middle of a busy road, seemingly oblivious to the millions of motorbikes whizzing past them!

    - -         A man speeding along on a motorbike and nonchalantly eating a bowl of soup at the same time!

    -- Vietnamese people, on more occasions than I care to remember, zooming straight through the front door of their houses on their motorbikes, and then casually parking it in the middle of their front room!

    A 'Bia Hoi' place where the owner's seven-year-old daughter brought you your beer!

    - -        A woman walking along with an enormous basket of fruit balanced on her head, whilst simultaneously sending a text message!

    As well as being a fascinating place, I also had a great time in Hanoi hanging out with Kate, my friend from Nottingham who’s living in the city. Amongst lots of hilarity, one incident that will stick long in the memory was last Sunday evening, when Kate and me were sat in her house both craving curry as a means of staving off raging hangovers. Unfortunately though, both of us felt too ropey to set foot outside the house… and neither of us were able to phone for food, due to having zilch credit on our respective phones.

    What to do?

    Well, initiative came to the fore – and we duly emailed one of Kate’s friends, who lives two hours away from Hanoi, and asked him to ring a takeaway for us and get them to deliver us some food! It would’ve been a stroke of genius if this plan had worked – alas though, several hours passed and no curry was forthcoming.  

    In the end, it was left to me to fashion something resembling a curry out of the meagre contents of Kate’s fridge – although the chronic lack of utensils available meant that I had to rinse the rice through a pair of Kate’s tights!

    You probably had to be there really..!

    Anyway – much of my last few days in Hanoi were spent trying to cram in some of the ‘touristy’ things that I’d not gotten round to checking out. This included a shuftie at the Red River, which offers an oasis of calm amidst the chaos of the city… although I’m not sure where the name came from, as to me the water looked even browner than the Trent!

    One big disappointment meanwhile was the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, the late founder of the Vietnamese Communist Party. Now ‘Uncle Ho’ (as he is universally known here, amusingly) is something of a national hero in Vietnam, on account of him having liberated the country from French colonial rule. I must say, I felt a bit of a necrophiliac as I set off on Monday morning to go and see his embalmed body - however, after walking for nearly an hour through city streets, I arrived to find that the mausoleum is closed on Mondays!

    I couldn’t believe it! I mean, why does a bloody corpse need a day off?! Honestly..!

    So what of the trip down to Saigon then?

    Well it’s a fair old distance from Hanoi to get here – over 1,000 miles. As such, the sane option would’ve been to fly!

    However, sensing adventure, I decided to go by train – a journey of a mere 31 hours, which would involve me leaving Hanoi at 1pm, and then arriving in Saigon at 8pm the following night!

    Now with the prospect of spending a whole night on the train, I decided the sensible option would be to book a ‘sleeper’ ticket. This involved me sharing a six-berth cabin, with three bunks on each side – top, middle and bottom.

    Now within the pricing system for rail travel in Vietnam, the higher the bunk you have, the cheaper your ticket. As such, I decided to save myself a few thousand Dong by booking a ‘top bunk’. BIG mistake!

    With no ladder or seemingly any helpful footholds, it turned on that actually reaching the top bunk involved a feat of deft acrobatics frankly beyond a graceless individual like me!

    Naturally, this completely scuppered my plan of skulling a bottle of cheap Vietnamese vodka to help make the journey go quicker – as given the difficulty in getting to my bunk, I figured that it’d be a nightmare having to keep to-ing and fro-ing to the bogs after reaching that inevitable point in any drinking session they call ‘the breaking of the seal’!

    Though saying that, had I known what the toilets on the train were going to be like, I’d probably have abandoned my vodka plan anyway.

    So, there I lie as the train set off, feeling kinda trapped in my bunk! I wasn’t even able to sit up, as there was only about two feet of space between the bottom of my bunk and the roof of the train! And the ‘mattress’ I thought I’d be getting turned out to be just a piece of crappy carpet!

    All in all, it felt like a combination of being in a coffin and in prison! And as for trying to get to sleep – well, there were about three occasions when I drifted off... only to wake up and check my watch, and find that I’d only actually been in the land of nod for about 15 minutes!

    Having said all this, the journey wasn’t an entirely lamentable experience. It was certainly interesting being pretty much the only non-Vietnamese person on the whole train – and though he spoke no English, the bloke in the bunk opposite me kept grinning at me inanely and offering me peanuts, which was pretty cool!

    It was also interesting watching the Vietnamese countryside drift past. Unlike the UK, most of the railways here aren’t ‘fenced’… and so you’d often see people working away in the paddy fields literally right next to the track, with none of them batting an eyelid as the train thundered past just inches away.

    I can categorically state though that paddy fields quickly start to get boring after a few hours!

    And to add insult to injury, much of the journey involved endurance of some of the most atrocious ‘lift music’ I’ve ever heard, which was piped into the cabin presumably in the misguided belief that my fellow passengers and I would find it in some way pleasant!

    Now as a tourist, you actually get charged higher prices for rail travel in Vietnam than Vietnamese people. And when I bought my ticket for this trip at Hanoi station, I’d noticed accordingly that it had been stamped with the word ‘Foreigner’.

    I’d duly amused myself with the idle thought that maybe each carriage on the train  had a different musical theme – and that through having been allocated a berth in ‘Foreigner’, I’d be forced to spend the entire 31-hour trip suffering ‘I Want to Know What Love Is’, ‘Cold As Ice’, and other soft rock shite.

    I can honestly say though that this would have actually been preferable to the actual reality – which, among other atrocities, involved a pan-pipe interpretation of The Beatles’ ‘And I Love Her’!

    Thank fuck for the invention of the iPod, and its ability to drown out the sound of the outside world… that’s all I can say!

    And thank fuck for Saigon, too, I thought, when the place finally loomed into view… seemingly weeks after we set off from Hanoi! I arrived to find the city in darkness, and duly jumped in a rickshaw and got the driver to take me to the part of town where all the cheap hotels are.

    I duly checked into a place offering en-suite rooms for equivalent of three quid a night. And I must say, after having gotten used to the luxury of Kate’s plush pad in Hanoi, it was a bit of a shock to return to the world of ‘budget accomodation’. The word ‘shithole’ doesn’t come close!

    Still, all it is is a bed for the night. And on that note, it’s time to catch up on sleep, methinks..!

    March 25

    How I wish, how I wish you were here. We're just two lost souls living in a fish bowl, year after year...

      Well, it’s Sunday morning, and I’d been hoping to have a lie-in. Instead though, I was bloody woken up by a Vietnamese woman thwacking seven bells out of a cow bell in the street outside!

    It’s the rubbish collectors who do this when they come round with their carts. It’s basically their way of letting everyone know they’re here, so people can pop out of their houses and chuck any trash that they have into the cart.

    A simple but clever system, it has to be said – but not early on a Goddamn Sunday!

    Still, this rude awakening aside, the last few days have been pretty good – not least in that I’ve been on a trip out of Hanoi to the coast!

    Now having been born and bred in Nottingham, I basically spent my childhood in a city that is probably the furthest place in any direction in the UK from any sea. You have to drive at least two hours in any direction to get even a whiff of the coast – and then when you got there, it’s fucking Skegness half of the bloody time!

    Joking aside though, an interesting by-product of this geographic circumstance is that we Nottingham folk tend to get quite excited, even as fully-grown adults, whenever we get to see the sea.

    So needless to say, I was pretty giddy on Friday morning as I departed early from Hanoi on an organised tour to Halong Bay – a World Heritage Site that’s renowned as being one of the most picturesque places in the world.

    The trip to Halong was a three-hour bus journey – and on arriving at the bustling harbour around lunchtime, we were ushered onto a ‘junk’, which is a traditional Vietnamese boat.

    We then enjoyed lunch on board as the boat set off – and as we got further and further into the bay, it became immediately apparent that it is fully deserving of its World Heritage status.

    The place is mind-bendingly beautiful. It’s basically miles upon miles of limestone rock formations jutting out of emerald green waters.

    And the water was ridiculously calm – so much so that it felt more like being on a lake than in the sea.

    It was all incredibly tranquil, with the only interruption to the sense of solitude being flying fish making the occasional leap out of the water!

    So, a great place. And just generally being on the boat was pretty cool too. I spent most of the day just lazing on the top deck enjoying the scenery, and chatting away to the other folk on the trip – some of whom were really cool people. There was also a ‘ship’s cat’, which was ridiculously cute and playful, and seemed to be very much in its element being lavished with attention by all the passengers.

    As well as simply cruising round the bay, there were also a few activities during the day. At one point, we were given the opportunity to get into a tiny motorboat, which then took you to have a closer look at some of the nooks and crannies in the rocks that our ‘main’ boat wasn’t able to get to because of its size.

    This was cool, although the motorboat itself was blatantly an absolute deathtrap! I’m sure it was only designed for a couple of people – yet when I went on it, there were 20 of us crammed onto it!

    We also got to have a swim in the sea at one point, which was pretty cool. Meanwhile, there was a constant source of entertainment throughout the day in the shape of the Vietnamese hawkers, who kept turning up in rowing boats, trying to sell us everything from vodka to fake pearl necklaces. Amazingly, a lot of these people actually live in the middle of the bay, in wooden huts built on floating platforms. It was amazing to see – one of the huts even had a Sky dish!

    Come nightfall, the crew on our boat dropped anchor in the middle of the bay – as part of the ‘deal’ with the tour was that we’d get to spend the night on the boat!

    This first involved dinner – and for a group of about eight of us, this descended into an enormous piss-up on the top deck!

    Brilliantly, one of the group – a dude called Toby from Germany – had brought an acoustic guitar with him. And it turned out that Toby and me had remarkably similar tastes in music – so naturally, we immediately decided to form a band, with him on guitar and me on vocals!

    We duly entertained the rest of the group with dubious renditions of classic tunes ranging from ‘Yellow Submarine’ by The Beatles to ‘Wish You Were Here’ by Pink Floyd!

    Sadly though, like all the great bands in musical history, we ended up splitting up due to that old chestnut of ‘musical differences’. Specifically, Toby was keen to play an ironic version of ‘Venus’ by Bananarama – though our valiant attempt quickly died on its arse due to me not knowing any of the words beyond the chorus!

    Another bizarre thing that happened during the evening meanwhile was when a Vietnamese dude decided to board our boat - having appeared, seemingly from nowhere, in a motorboat!

    Initially, we were like “Shit, it’s a pirate!” – as you do actually get modern-day pirates in some parts of South-East Asia, who basically board other boats and rob them!

    Happily though, the guy was harmless – he spoke no English, but was seemingly just curious as to what all the revelry on our boat was about!

    So, a fun night. The sleeping arrangements on the boat were twin-berth cabins – which meant the group had to ‘pair off’. Naturally, I’m far too coy and discreet to confirm or deny whether I ended up sharing a cabin with a stunning 21-year-Swedish girl called Kerin – or indeed whether this subsequently led to me acquiring my  ‘Scandanavian wings’..!

    Whatever happened, there was a very abrupt awakening in the morning via crazed shouting in German! Basically, the cabins didn’t have any lights in them – and groping in the dark in his cabin to find his socks, Toby had somehow managed to set off a fire extinguisher!

    The morning saw us do some more cruising round the bay, before docking and then getting the bus back to Hanoi. The journey back was a bit of a farce though – as rather than taking us back on a chartered bus, as was the case with the outbound journey, the organisers simply handed us tickets for the public transport bus, and then dumped us at the bus station!

    This resulted in us having to wait for bloody ages – as rather than leaving on the dot at five past the hour or whatever, a lot of the buses here only actually depart when they’re full!

    So potentially we could’ve ended up stranded there for days!

    Still, the whole trip, including food, had only cost equivalent of about £15 – so it was very much a case of ‘you get what you pay for’. And the whole scenario was pretty funny..!

    March 22

    I've got a bike, you can ride it if you like, it's got a basket and a bell and things to make it look good...

      Bloody hell, my arse is killing me!  

    In fact, in hurts so much that I’m seriously beginning to wonder whether I actually spent last night sipping Rohypnol cocktails at a Michael Barrymore pool party.

    Awite at the back, I’m most certainly not..!

    Before you get too alarmed though about what I may have been up to, the reason for my sore derriere is actually the fact that I spent all of yesterday checking out rural Vietnam as part of an organised cycling tour!

    It was a great day - not least because there were just three of us on the tour, plus a Vietnamese guide.

    It all started with a car journey out of Hanoi, which in itself was quite interesting. Here, the motorway entrances are adorned with loads of signs stipulating that horses and carts are strictly forbidden on the carriageway – though there’s still much the same sense of chaos that you get on the city roads. Indeed, you even get people setting up makeshift food stalls by the side of the road – and with there being no hard shoulder, you get people just stopping in the inside lane so they can buy a baguette or whatever!

    It’s certainly a lot different from the M1..!

    After travelling about 20 miles north of Hanoi, we came off the motorway… and after driving down a series of roads that were little more than dirt tracks in a lot of places, we arrived in a small village where we collected our boneshaker bikes. It was the first time in ages I’d properly ridden a pushbike – but it took all of five seconds for it to feel ‘normal’.

    As the saying goes, it’s just like riding a bike (groan...!)

    And the tour was great. The day saw us cover about 15 miles – and cycling along in a convoy, it felt a bit like being in that Smiths video that has Morrissey and a load of Morrissey look-alikes pedalling their way through suburban Manchester.

    That said, rural Vietnam is a far cry from the grey streets of Salford! The scenery was really pretty, with the area that we covered largely flat and predominantly used for farming – with lots of workers busy beavering away in the paddy fields. There was also cattle grazing here, there and everywhere – most of it not actually fenced in. As such, there were numerous points when we had to stop due to huge cows lying in the road, blocking our path!

    The whole atmosphere was really peaceful – so much so that it was hard to believe we were only 20 miles or so from the chaos of Hanoi! I’d been a bit worried that I’d struggle to remember the fact that, in Vietnam, you have to drive – or cycle, in our case – on the right hand side of the road. As it was though, we saw such little traffic that it hardly mattered.

    The tour also saw us pass through loads of villages, where we generally stopped for a break and drank Vietnamese green tea, which we bought from the people who were selling it in the street. The villages were all really cool, all of them having loads of chickens, geese and pigs wandering around the streets. At one of the villages we visited a market where you could actually buy live chickens for equivalent of less than a quid each!

    The people in the villages were generally very welcoming. With the area that we were exploring not being a place that gets many tourists, we certainly seemed a source of intrigue to them. In one village, we went past the village school just as it was kicking out for the day… and the kids practically formed a ‘guard of honour’ for us as we cycled past!

    It was amazing – and suspecting that the kids would find it amusing, I decided to pull a massive ‘wheelie’! This went down a storm – so much so that about 50 of the kids jumped on their own bikes and promptly followed us for about two miles, all shouting “Hello!” and other greetings!

    The day also saw us visit a couple of temples – or pagodas, as they are called here. At one of these, I was amazed to find a huge marble statue of a Buddhist icon which had its left hand doing the ‘Sign of Rock’! Upon consulting our guide, I duly learned that the ‘Sign of Rock’ is actually has its origins as a Buddhist symbol.

    In addition, we visited a brick factory, where we learned about a curious Vietnamese tradition in the area. Apparently, if a bloke wants to marry a girl from a different village, then he is expected to provide the girl’s village with 1,000 bricks – which are then used to improve the roads.

    From the state of the roads we were cycling along, I can only assume that marriage in rural Vietnam is deeply unfashionable these days..!

    So that was the cycling trip. Meanwhile, a couple of other things to report…

    First of all, I’ve made the exciting discovery when I popped to the shops the other day that Vietnam produces possibly the greatest crisps in the whole world! They’re crisps Jim, but not as we know it – because rather than potatoes, they’re actually made out of pineapple!

    Absolutely delicious…

    Secondly, I’ve just been having a look at the blog sites of various friends – and my Malaysia-based buddy Mikey B has uploaded a photo to his that’s reminded me of something amusing that happened when I dropped in on him in Kuala Lumpur last week.

    Now being from Liverpool, Mikey B is a die-hard Everton fan*. However, there have been numerous occasions when I’ve dragged him along to watch my beloved Nottingham Forest. As a result of this, I think it’s fair to say that Mike has adopted the mighty Reds as a sort of ‘second team’ – and as such, I bought him a Forest shirt with his name on the back as a leaving present when him and his family left the UK last year to start their new life in Asia.

    Anyway, on arriving in Kuala Lumpur last week, I happened to be wearing my own Forest shirt – one of just five tops I have with me on this travel adventure.

    Mike duly greeted me at the entrance of the apartment complex where he lives – and brilliantly, he was also wearing the hallowed Garibaldi red!

    You can view photographic evidence of this big Forest love-in by clicking here.

    Meanwhile, you can also read Mike’s account of my brief stop-over in Kuala Lumpur by clicking here…

    * The term ‘die-hard Everton fan’ is in reference to Mike’s curious habit of attending Goodison Park in fancy dress as Hollywood tough guy Bruce Willis.

    March 20

    Prince Charming! Prince Charming! Ridicule is nothing to be scared of...

      So, I’ve been in Hanoi for five days now – and every time I stick my hand in my pocket to buy something, it serves as a cruel reminder of what was undoubtedly one of the most embarrassing moments of my life.  

    Now those of you who have known me for more than six years will probably know exactly what I am referring to!

    If any more recently-acquired friends and acquaintances are reading this though – well, imagine me in a situation where I’m part of a group of about ten other people, all of us stood in a semi-circle facing a sour-faced, cantankerous dwarf who appears to have overdone the botox a bit

    “Rich – what is the currency of Vietnam?” the dwarf barks at me.

    “Erm… the Peso?” I stammer in reply.

    Sadly, the inaccuracy of my wild guess proved to be fatal – because just a few seconds later, I found my career as a TV game show contestant over before it had even really begun. And ever since, my mind has forever been haunted by the words “Rich, you are the weakest link - goodbye”!

    Still, I can’t hold that against the Dong – which  would’ve been the correct answer! Indeed, the Dong has actually been a lot of fun since I got to Vietnam. For starters, the current exchange rate gives you approximately 29,000 Dong to the pound – so you only actually need about £33 here to be a millionaire!

    With banknotes coming in denominations as small as 500 Dong though, it can does get pretty ridiculous. Just getting change after you’ve paid for a drink with a 100,000 Dong note can land you with a wad of notes so thick that you feel like you’re a pimp or a druglord or something! In shops and bars, you often end up with staff raiding their own purses in order to be able to provide you with the correct change - and the Dong is so cumbersome that the Vietnamese have actually adopted the US dollar as an unofficial second currency. It can all get a bit confusing!

    Ultimately though, money goes quite a long way here, whether it’s Dong or dollars that you’re spending… as everything is dirt cheap. For instance, you can eat out here and have a really nice meal, with drinks included, for equivalent of about two quid.

    What’s more, Kate and me went shopping the other day… and we both ended up buying hand-made 100% silk traditional Vietnamese-style dressing gowns, for equivalent of less than a tenner each!

    And the shops here are great! With Hanoi being so cramped, the Vietnamese shopkeepers have become incredibly good at maximisierng the limited space they have. You get shops here that are no bigger than the average broom cupboard, and yet which sell pretty much everything under the sun!

    If I’m not careful I’m going to end up buying loads of knick-knacks here. There’s loads of shops that sell really cool prints of the propaganda posters that were produced by the Vietnamese Government during to Vietnam war, which I’ve kind of got my eye on

    The fact that everything’s cheap as chips though is by no means the only thing that Hanoi has got going for it. On so many different levels, it’s an absolutely fascinating place.

    So what have I been doing while I’ve been here? 

    Well during the daytime, Kate – my friend who I’m staying with - has been at work. As such, I’ve spent a lot of time exploring the city on my own. And it’s such an enchanting place that just wandering aimlessly is more than enough to keep you entertained all day.

    The place is an absolute assault on the senses - snowstorm of sights, sounds and smells. The streets are just a constant blur of movement, mainly motorbikes flying here, there and everywhere.

    Just crossing the road here is a mini event. There are actually some pedestrian crossings in central Hanoi - however, most motorists pay them very little attention. As such, you’re left with little choice but to do what the locals do – yes, you simply walk slowly out into the road in front of the oncoming traffic… and then watch as the bikes just casually swerve around you!

    I must say, I was papping my kecks the first time I did this – however, it’s now starting to feel kinda normal!

    The Vietnamese people, meanwhile, are absolutely fascinating. They’re generally really friendly… and by and large, their lives seem to be very focused on being out on the streets. From the crack of dawn to late at night, the place is swarming with people doing all sorts of jobs - such as fixing motorbikes, picking litter, selling food from makeshift stalls, cutting hair, shining shoes, and carrying baskets of groceries – sometimes on their heads.

    You also get loads of ‘taxi drivers’ hustling for business – though here, the taxis are actually motorbikes!

    The place just buzzes with a really positive energy. With being an obvious Westerner and Vietnam being a relatively poor country, I’d expected to be hounded here by beggars. It’s not like that at all though – as the people here take great pride in actually working for their living. You even get really old ladies carrying huge baskets of fruit around - though sadly, these old dears almost certainly slog their guts out every day because they HAVE to, rather than through choice..

    Still, everyone here seems to go about their business with smiles on their faces – even the people doing what you’d imagine are the less enviable jobs. In a nutshell, the Vietnamese are just a really industrious bunch of people, and it can only be admired. Their spirit certainly helps you to understand how Vietnam managed to withstand such heavy American bombing in the 1960s.

    Yet coupled with the diligence is a real laid-back streak. Of the people who aren’t working for whatever reason, a lot of them seem to just sit out on the street watching the world go by. It’s even quite common to see people sat sound asleep – which may or may not be something to do with the huge bongs you often see people sitting smoking!

    Other non-workers can often be seen playing a game that I’m pretty sure is Mah Jong. I also saw one group of young guys playing a strange variant of badminton – basically, there were about five of them stood in a circle... and they were kicking a shuttlecock to each other in a keepy-uppy style! I was quite fascinated by this – and when one member of the group clocked that I was watching them, they invited me to join in!

    You also often see people making little fires on the pavement. This is apparently part of a Buddhist ritual - as the religious and spiritual beliefs of most Vietnamese people is based around Buddhism, and lighting the fires is meant to bring good luck.

    One of many good things about staying with Kate here in Hanoi is the fact that her house is a fair distance away from the main ‘touristy’ area of the city. It’s pretty cool, as wandering around the immediate neighbourhood, you often feel like you’re the only Westerner in the vicinity. There have certainly been times when my presence has generated interest among the locals – particularly the kids, who often run up to me just to stare at me and say Hello! They’re all ridiculously cute – I can definitely see why Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie are looking to adopt a Vietnamese baby!

    So that’s Hanoi by day – by night meanwhile, I’ve been having a lot of fun hanging around with Kate and buzzing round the city with her on her motorbike. I don’t think this could ever stop being the most exciting thing in the world. It’s such a headrush! Most of the  time, we’re not going any faster than 30mph – however, with the wind rushing past your face, it feels much faster.

    Given how cheap it is here, we’ve also been doing a lot of eating out and drinking – including a very surreal session for St Patrick’s Day in Hanoi’s only Irish pub! The food here is also brilliant – my only criticism would be the fact that the waiting staff at all the eateries, presumably through being wrapped up in the furious pace of life here, only tend to give you about 30 seconds to decide what you want and order!

    Due  to my veggie tendencies, I’ve forgone a lot of the traditional Vietnamese fare, with local delicacies including tortoise meat and roasted sparrow! However, the salads here are incredible. It’s all healthy stuff – you can certainly see why you don’t get any fat Vietnamese people! Oh, and avocado smoothies are officially the greatest drink in the world – I’ve been averaging about three a day!

    As for alcoholic beverages meanwhile – well, there are loads of ‘Bia Hoi’ bars here where you sit on the pavement on plastic chairs and drink beer for equivalent of about 8p a glass! The rice wine is also lethal!

    Generally, Kate and me have been drinking quite a lot! I think we’re a bad combination really – as we’re both the sort of people who never really know when to call it a night! Still, it’s been a lot of fun – and hey, why not drink and be merry and live for the moment?

    After all, life – like game-show careers – can be cruelly snatched away in a matter of seconds..!

    March 19

    You won't stop talking, why don't you give it a rest? You've got more rabbit than Sainsburys - it's time to get it off your chest..!

      Those of you who are among the more avid readers of my witterings on this site may want to re-read my last update – because due to my general fuckwittedness when it comes to all things computer-related, the version that’s been there for all to see over the last few days was actually only a half-finished draft!  

    Now though, you have the ‘finished article’ – complete with a glut of previously unincluded dramas, ranging from motorbike accidents to international fruit-smuggling operations!

    Indeed, my time in Hanoi has been nothing if not eventful. I think it says a lot about a place when, within 24 hours of arrival, you not only fall off a motorbike, but also bag the coveted job of being Vietnam’s answer to Russell Grant!

    Yes, my friend Kate who I’m staying with here is working out here as a journalist for a Vietnamese lifestyle magazine. She’s currently got quite a heavy workload – and so with journalism being something that I’m pretty well-versed in, I duly asked if she needed a hand with anything.

    “Well actually,” said Kate, “you can write the Chinese horoscopes if you want!”

    Now it’s almost certainly fair to say that my suitability for this task is probably tenuous to say the least! Nevertheless, a big part of  being a journo is about simply being a bare-faced blagger – and after half an hour’s searching on the web, I managed to find enough background on each of the 12 Chinese animals to write 80-odd words of guff about each!

    Needless to say, I couldn’t resist having a bit of fun with it! In my guff for those born in the year of one particular animal, I made a subtle reference to ‘Rockney’ legends Chas & Dave… in honour of their seminal hit single ‘Rabbit’!

    For those born in the year of the horse meanwhile, I managed to slip in the phrase ‘hung like a horse’; while any Nottingham Forest fans reading this will recognise a bit of a coded message in my forecast for those born in the year of the sheep!

    Anyway, without further a do – below are my forecasts in full!

    Apologies if I’ve predicted any abject woe for any of you – though I really wouldn’t take my ‘powers’ as a star-gazer all that seriously really..!

     

    Rat

    As a rat, you’ve always been pretty smart – and it’s just as well, because you have to negotiate a tricky chicane of unlucky stars. What’s more, this year’s ruling element of fire and your fixed element of water will continue to be a potentially disastrous combination. It’s very much a time of keeping a low profile and avoiding any potential pitfalls.

     

    Ox

    It’s all about your strength when you’re an ox – and it’s a quality you’ll need to bring to the very fore due to a constellation riddled with unlucky stars. Weather the storm though with grace and dignity and there’s a good chance that you’ll be rewarded with surprise news about a health matter that’s been worrying you for some time.

     

    Tiger

    You tigers have always flourished in the Year of the Pig – and there will certainly be no deviation from that pattern in the coming weeks. Your relationships will blossom, your health will be robust, and it’s likely that you’ll get an unexpected increase in pay at work. It’s definitely a good time to take a few risks. After all, when things are going this well, what’s the worst that can happen?

     

    Rabbit

    If you’re a rabbit, this will feel like a period of your life where you’re never satisfied. There just isn’t any pleasing you. But don’t ‘rabbit on’ and complain about this – because if you bide your time and be patient, everything will eventually work out just as you want it to… particularly with relationships and money. You still need to tread carefully though, as there is one unlucky star that could potentially affect your health.

                           

    Dragon  

    With the very stuff that you breathe being this year’s ruling element, you dragons were always guaranteed a good year. And the weeks ahead could produce a fire in your heart – because if you’re prepared to make the effort to come out of your cave, you’re almost certain to reap the rewards in your love life. Be careful though, as this could distract you from paying due attention to other important areas of your life.

       

    Snake

    It’s a good job that your snakes are good at laying low, as right now a barrage of unlucky stars suggest that even getting out of bed could lead to disaster for you. Don’t see this as a bad thing however – because keeping your head down for a while will give you time to reflect, and there’s a good chance that you’ll work out where you’ve been going wrong of late in your work and relationships.

     

    Horse

    As a horse, you constantly crave excitement - and the good news is that there will be plenty in the coming weeks. Be careful though, as there can be a very fine line with excitement between joy and disaster – and if you grab too much rope, you may well end up hanging yourself. And when it comes to a hanging, nobody’s hung quite like a horse…

     

    Sheep

    If we were to talk about star-gazing in terms of it being a dinner party, then the sheep would be the guest of honour during any month of the year. But while this continues to be a great year for you, don’t fall into the trap of thinking you’re invincible. Try and show a bit of humility – because there are some stars in a distant constellation that suggest your current business success may be short-lived, and that your rivals are waiting in the wings to take advantage if the event of this happening.

     

    Monkey

    It may be what you monkeys do best… but unfortunately, this is not a good time for monkeying around. A whole host of unlucky stars mean that you face a smorgasbord of possible pitfalls – and to avoid these, you have to make sure you’re concentrating at all times. That said, some of the pitfalls are ones that will turn out to be a blessing in the long run.

     

    Rooster

    Being a rooster, you’re an emotional character – and generally, that’s no bad thing. But as we go further into the New Year, you will find increasingly that there’s little tolerance of your tantrums and outbursts during the Year of the Pig. Your health and work life are likely to suffer if you don’t keep your cool. On a more positive note however, there’s a lucky star that suggests you may be set for a fruitful period with relationships.

     

    Dog  

    You dogs are invariably so busy protecting others that you often despair of ever having time for yourself. But relax! A constellation full of lucky stars means you can drop your guard a little in the coming weeks and look after number one. It’s also a time where there’s a very strong likelihood of somebody important waltzing unexpectedly into your life.

     

     Pig

    Okay pigs, we know it’s all about you this year. But that’s no reason to be complacent – for although the pig can always be relied upon to bring luck to other signs, you often have the exact opposite affect on yourself. It’s up to you really. Stick your neck out and go the extra mile in all the important areas of your life, and you’ll be happily rolling around in the mud. But rest on your laurels and your relationships and work life will flounder.

    March 16

    Woah-oh-oh-oh, Camoflage... things aren't always quite the way they seem!

     
    Well... good morning (from) Vietnam!!!
     
    I arrived here yesterday evening. And I must say, I do love that feeling you get during your first few days in a strange and unfamiliar place. Literally every five minutes, I find myself grinning inanely and thinking to myself "Wow! I'm in Vietnam!"
     
    And it's a crazy place... with more 'Hos' than the average Niggaz With Attitude lyric. Arf!
     
    I'm currently in the city of Hanoi, where I'm staying with Kate - a mate from 'back home', who's working out here as a journalist on an English-language Vietnamese lifestyle magazine.
     
    Specifically, I'm lazing right now on the sofa in Kate's house - where, after months of varyingly woeful connection speeds in internet cafes, I'm very much enjoying the luxury of a wireless broadband via Kate's laptop!
     
    But before I start eulogising about Hanoi, let's pick up where we left off a couple of days ago...
     
    Well when I last updated this site, I was set to make the seven-hour bus journey from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur. And needless to say, it was a journey I awaited with a certain degree of trepidation. After all, you do hear all sorts of horror stories about bus journeys in Asia - and having paid equivalent of less than a tenner for the bus ticket, I did wonder whether it'd be a case of 'You get what you pay for'!
     
    As it turned out though, it was pretty tame really. Indeed, far from being packed like sardines on a sweaty bus full of chickens, the journey was made on a clean, modern coach with air-con and loads of legroom. The only weird thing really was that the driver had presumably just done his laundry... as all his wet washing was hanging out to dry throughout the coach from the curtain rails!
     
    Mad!
     
    So, after taking a seat beneath a damp Spiderman beach towell, we set off - although very soon we had to get off again, complete with all our bags, in order to go through immigration when we crossed the border into Malaysia. It was a bit of a ballache - still, I got another two stamps in my passport!
     
    It's getting so ink-splattered now that some of the pages are starting to look like a convict's forearm!
     
    We then pressed onto Kuala Lumpur - a fairly uneventful drive via a motorway flanked either side by dense jungle. The only real points of note were when more passengers got on, and one bloke starting blaring out what sounded like the Malaysian answer to Phil Collins on a ghetto blaster. Truly harrowing!
     
    With the bus only being two thirds full, I decided to move seats - only for the bus driver to actually pull over to bollock me in Malaysian,  and insist, via a series of gesticulations, that I go back to my original seat! Sadly, the 'useful phrases' section in 'The Rough Guide to South East Asia' doesn't include the Malaysian for "Oh, piss off you bloody jobsworth!"
     
    So that was the bus journey - and upon being dumped in the centre of Kuala Lumpur, I had the immediate challenge of finding a cashpoint, then buying something to get some change... and then finding a payphone so I could ring my good friend Mikey B, who's now a resident of Kuala Lumpur.
     
    Needless to say, these sorts of missions are never as easy as they should be! Is this what life was like all the time before the invention of mobile phones?!
     
    I also had the added hurdle of trying to do all this in the middle of both the city's rush hour, and a torrential downpour of monsoon proportions! Still, I persevered... and after speaking to Mike, we decided it'd be easiest for me to simply jump in a taxi straight to his apartment.
     
    Now other than confirming that it is officially the moustache capital of the world, I shan't say too much else about Kuala Lumpur here... as this was just a flying one-night visit ahead of my 'proper' stay in the city next month. Naturally though, it was great to catch up for the first time in ages with Mike, plus his wife Nicki and their kids.
     
    The next day meanwhile saw Mike drop me off at the airpor a fewt to continue my journey on to Vietnam. My three-hour flight to Hanoi was with the budget airline Air Asia - a sort of Asian version of Easyjet. And one of the curious things about Air Asia is the fact that half their cabin crew wear Manchester United baseball caps, as part of a sponsorship deal with Alex Ferguson's lot!
     
    What's more while there was no in-flight meal, you could buy the Asian equivalent of Pot Noodles in a wide variety of flavours!
     
    So that was the flight - and after landing, I immediately braced myself for madness! Yes, I'd already spent a few days in Asia - however, ask anyone who's seen a lot of this continent, and they'll tell you that Singapore and Kuala Lumpur are very much at the tamer end of the scale in terms of chaos.
     
    Vietnam on the other hand - well, check out this excerpt from an email I received a few days ago from Kate, my friend who I'm staying with here in Hanoi...
     
     "I live opposite a park which I know you will find fascinating. They have Communist-inspired aerobic sessions at 6am every morning, with women participating who are in their late 80s. So, if you want to get some sleep, bring LOADS OF EAR PLUGS."
     
    Before this though, there was the small matter of a 45-minute taxi ride from the airport into central Hanoi - a white knuckle ride if ever there was one! The roads here are utter chaos - seemingly devoid of traffic signals or rules. Most of the traffic is actually motorbikes - some of them with up to three passengers, including small children... and others with ridiculous amounts of baggage strapped to them. Junctions are a cacaphony of blaring horns and basically a complete free-for-all, with vehicles flying across from all directions and near collisions every few seconds. Amazingly, hardly anyone wears a crash helmet!
     
    So, an amazing ride - it felt like being in a computer game!

    There was also plenty to look at away from the road. Immediately after leaving the   airport we went past loads of paddy fields, in which the Vietnamese people were busy  working away. By the side of the road meanwhile, there were numerous people walking along with varying numbers of buffaloes in tow!

    The city of Hanoi itself meanwhile turned out to be a dense, and largely flat, sprawl. There’s not a skyscraper (or a McDonalds) in sight – with virtually all of the buildings fairly low-rise concrete affairs … some of them pleasing to the eye, and others seemingly just piles of breeze blocks.

    Eventually I arrived at Kate’s house in the city centre – and I’m pleased to say she was absolutely delighted to see me when I arrived. However, I suspect this was mainly because of what I had in my backpack!

    Kate, you see, is chronically addicted to blueberries… and was naturally horrified when she arrived in Hanoi a couple of months ago and discovered that you can’t get them here!

    Now having sacrificed some valuable backpack space in order to bring a supply of Cadbury’s Double Deckers all way from Australia for a similarly impoverished Mikey B, recent weeks have seen me become an accomplished food smuggler!

    And being the sort of bloke who’s only too happy to help a damsel in distress, I’d made a point of picking up half a kilo of blueberries while I was in Kuala Lumpur – where they are readily available – which I casually presented to Kate as I walked through her front door!

    Happily, Kate’s house proved to be very much in the ‘pleasing to the eye’ category of Hanoi buildings – a gorgeous four-storey building that would cost an absolute fortune to rent in the UK, but which  she’s paying a pittance for by our standards. And amazingly, she gets little lizards creeping up and down the walls!

    There was no time to sit and relax though. It was early evening by this time… and as soon as I’d dumped my bags, Kate was like “Right, we’re off out to dinner!” What’s more, the method of transport for getting to dinner was Kate’s motorbike, which she’s currently renting!

    Now I’d never been on a motorbike in my life, as either a driver or passenger. And having seen what Vietnam’s roads are like, I’m not remotely embarrassed to say that my sphincter was twitching like a rabbit’s nose at the prospect of being at their mercy on only two wheels!

    Still, I’ve always thought that it’s to step outside your comfort zone every now and then – so gamely, I plonked myself on the back of Kate’s bike…. and found myself clinging onto her like a little monkey clinging onto its mother* as we sped through the streets!

    It was a complete buzz though - and despite one tense moment when I almost lost one of my flip-flops, I was sort of disappointed in a way when we got to the restaurant and had to get off the bike!

    The restaurant was amazing though – a traditional Vietnamese place where you sit on cushions on the floor, and eat with chop sticks. However, the meal ended up being completely overshadowed by the journey back to Kate’s place on the bike – in so far as the fact that we bloody ended up being in a crash!

    As is the way with these things, my recollection of what exactly happened is a bit of a blur. In a nutshell though, a Vietnamese guy on a pushbike with no lights just swerved out in front of us… and next thing I knew, Kate and me were both lying in the road, slightly dazed!

    Fortunately neither of us were really hurt beyond a few cuts and bruises, and the Vietnamese dude seemed okay as well.

    The fact that I managed to get myself involved in a motorbike accident though within just a few hours of landing in Hanoi – it makes me suspect somehow that my stay here is going to be far from dull...!

    * Quite a good analogy if you ignore the fact that Kate’s tiny and I’m quite a ‘big bogger’!

    March 13

    The world's a better place in my beautiful balloon...

     
    Well, I'm pleased to report that I arrived in Asia safely last night, after a gruelling ten hours of flying - three hours from Wellington to Sydney, and then seven hours from Sydney to Singapore.
     
    Inevitably, the journey wasn't all that exciting really - though there was a bit of drama during the Sydney-to-Singapore leg when the pilot had to re-plan the route due to due a cyclone having suddenly decided to attack the western coast of Australia!
     
    I also had the misfortune of sitting next to possibly the rudest person I have ever had the misfortune of speaking to - a hatchet-faced bint who got all narky with me just because I politely declined when she asked if I'd mind relinquishing my coveted aisle seat by swapping places with her.
     
    Mrs Narky - I sincerely hope that your next shit is a hedgehog!
     
    In terms of the flight - I was also a bit ratted off at being forced to pay a 'departure tax' of 25 New Zealand dollars just to be able to leave the country! Okay, so 25 NZ dollars is only about a tenner - but nevertheless, it all seemed a bit like money for old rope.
     
    Still, enough of the journey - what about Singapore itself?
     
    Well, as most of you will know, Singapore is a tiny island - essentially a city state. And I must say, i was never anywhere near the top of my 'places I've always wanted to go to' list.
     
    However, Singapore is by far the easiest place in Asia to get a flight into from Australia - and so with me having little choice but to fly into the place, I figured it'd be rude not to spend a few days checking it out.
     
    Not that I was able to do much checking out when I arrived though - as by the time I'd collected my bags and jumped onto a bus, it was way past midnight. And having been flying for ten hours, all I wanted to do was sleep - so as soon as I arrived in the city centre, I simply found the first backpacker dive I stumbled across, checked in for a couple of nights, and then went straight to bed.
     
    The hostel where I'm staying was certainly a welcome reminder that Asia is going to be kinder on the wallet than Australia and New Zealand - with a dorm bed costing equivalent of just six quid a night!
     
    Granted, the place is a bit of a dump - indeed, the bedroom that I'm in doesn't actually have a door! Mind you, it's so bloody humid here that that probably isn't a bad thing...
     
    So having caught up on sleep, today has been all about exploring.
     
    Now when visiting a new place for the first time, I always like to pump friends who have already been there for information. As such, I duly consulted the redoubtable Michael Ronald Blundell - or Mikey B, as he is known to his friends. 
     
    "Singapore is good," came his insights. "See if you can find a place called 'Four Floors of Whores'. A sound word of advice though - if you do go wandering on the top floor, beware of who you chat up!"
     
    Armed with this priceless nugget of information, I duly set off - and as I expected, the city is a sea of skyscrapers and generally quite 'western'-looking. It also became quickly apparent that English is the dominant language here - what's more, they even use the British three-pin power sockets!
     
    However, if you head a bit deeper into the nooks and crannies of Singapore, there are places where you actually feel like you're in Asia. Little India and Chinatown are both lively and full of character. In Little India - where I'm staying - there's loads of feral cats wandering around, and you get loads of old dudes sitting on the street, all sage-like, just watching the world go by. 
     
    I was also amused to discover that there's apparently a shop where you can go in and have your fortune told by a psychic parrot! Sounds like a crock of shit to me - but nevertheless, I may still go and check it out, just for the sheer randomness of it.
     
    In Chinatown meanwhile, there are loads of tailor shops, staffed by crazy men who try and drag you in and get you to buy a suit off them. One of the tailor shops is actually open 24 hours. I must say, I'll certainly sleep easier in my bed tonight, now that I know there's somewhere I can go should I need an emergency bespoke cravatt at four in the morning!
     
    In terms of other stuff I've checked out today, I also went and had a shuftie at Raffles - the ridiculously opulent hotel where all the British yoffs used to stay, back in the days when Singapore was a colony
     
    Sadly, the room rate - equivalent of about a grand a night! - was somewhat out of my budget! Amazingly though, the doorman was sufficiently unworried by my scruffy appearance to actually let me go for a drink in the hotel bar... where naturally, I ordered a refreshing mid-morning Singapore Sling.
     
    Cliched, I know... but it had to be done! After all, it was the Raffles Bar where aforesaid cocktail was invented!
     
    So, after successfully lowering the tone at one of the poshest hotels in the world, I decided to have a ride over the city skyline in a hot air balloon! This was amazing, with ace views of all the skyscrapers. And incredibly, the price of going up in the balloon - equivalent of about eight quid - was actually marginally cheaper than the Singapore Sling!
     
    Meanwhile, another thing that's worth mentioning about Singapore is some of the bizarre laws here. It's illegal to chew chewing gum in public, and also to jaywalk across a main road! Both offences attract hefty fines if you're caught.
     
    Funniest of all though, there's also stiff penalties for not flushing a public toilet!
     
    This one has well and truly captured the imagination of the mischief-maker in me. I must say, I quite tempted to go and lay a massive cable in a public bog somewhere, leave without flushing... and then hang around covertly outside, just to see what happens when someone finds it!
     
    I mean, do they bring in the Turd Police to take a DNA sample from the offending floater, so as to find out the culprit?! The mind boggles... 
     
    So that just about brings us up to date. With Singapore being just a brief stop-off though, some of you may be wondering what my plans are for the coming weeks.
     
    Well, tomorrow I'll be crossing the border into Malysia, by making a six-hour bus ride from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur. There, I'll be staying the night with the aforementioned Mikey B - who moved to 'KL' with his family last year. 
     
    Then, the following day, I'll be flying from 'KL' to Hanoi in Vietnam... to start a period of three weeks or so that I'm planning to split 50/50 between Vietnam and Cambodia. And after that, I'll be returning to "KL' to spend a good couple of weeks with Mikey B.
     
    As part of this, we'll be making a weekend trip to Bangkok in Thailand.... and we're also hoping to go and watch the Malaysian Grand Prix!  
     
    After this, I'll be going to India for a couple of weeks, hopefully crossing the border into Nepal as part of this so I can go and have a look at Mount Everest.
     
    Then, I'll be flying to China... where I plan to spend a couple of days before commencing the bulk of my journey home via the Trans-Siberian Express - a crazy train journey that goes all the way from Beijing to Moscow!
     
    So, a LOT to look forward to - not least the fact that I may even get the opportunity to  become an international footballer along the way!
     
    Yes, check out this email that I rattled off the other day to the All India Football Federation - which is essentially their equivalent of the English FA...
     
    From: "Rich Fisher" <richardpfisher@hotmail.com>
    To: media@the-aiff.com
    Subject: RE: Would you be interested in giving me a trial for the Indian national team?
    Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 23:12:23 +0000

    Dear Sir/Madam,

    I'm not sure who the right person is for me to be addressing this email to... but I'm hoping you can forward it to the appropriate individual.

    Basically, the reason why I'm writing is because I'd like to offer my services to the Indian national football team.

    To give you a bit of background, I'm 27 years old, and have played football for many years at amateur level - usually as a centre forward.

    Now there is the small matter of my nationality. I'm actually British, and have lived my whole life in England.

    However, I suspect that I may actually be eligable to play for India, due to the fact that my Grandfather was born in Pune. He grew up in the city, and lived there until he was 20 years old.

    Now I'm currently doing a spot of travelling, and will be spending a few weeks in India next month (April). I see from your website that the AIFF is based in Delhi, which is a city I'll be visiting. Whilst I'm in town, I'd be more than happy to attend a trial, if you feel my footballing skills are worth assessing with a view to me potentially turning out for your national side.

    If you are interested then please to drop me an email.

    Incidentally - the city in England where I grew up - Nottingham - is one that your head coach Bobby Houghton will be very familar with, through him having spent a number of years during the 1990s working as a coach at our main local team, Nottingham Forest.

    I hope to hear from you soon.

    Yours faithfully,

    Rich Fisher

    Well, as they* say - if you don't ask, you don't get! And hey, India's footy team currenty stand at a humble 157 in the FIFA world rankings - so they must surely be desperate for someone who can bang a few goals in.

    Of course, my ability to actually do this is only proven when playing against fellow unfit people down at Powerleague in Nottingham on Tuesday and Thursday nightsl But hey, why let a trivial detail like that get in the way of a good story?!

    I will, needless to say, be straight on here with an update if I get any kind of response! I've got a good feeling about it though - I mean, how good an omen is the fact that the coach of India's national team is a man who was once assistant manager of the mighty Forest?!

    * Whoever 'they' are! Does anyone actually know?!

    March 11

    I take pictures to remember... you're too beautiful to put into words...

     
    So, here's where the story ends as far as New Zealand is concerned, what with me sat in an internet cafe right now, just killing time before getting the bus to the airport to catch my flight to Singapore (via Sydney).
     
    Saying that, I could easily have ended up being stranded here! This morning, you see, I had to go down to NZ's Vietnamese Embassy in downtown Wellington to collect my passport... which I'd had to leave with them as part of the application process for a Vietnamese Visa - something which I'll be needing later this week when I enter 'Nam.
     
    Anyways - I got there, and got into a bit of a panic when it appeared that the dozy sods there had lost my passport!
     
    Fortunately though, after a few minutes of sweating, they managed to locate it. Apparently it had been put in the 'wrong pile', or something...
     
    Saying that though, I can't say I would've objected all that much to being stranded in NZ. I've absolutely loved it here... possibly even more than I loved Australia.
     
    It's funny, as NZ had never been anywhere near the top of my 'places I really want to go to' list. In fact, the only real reason I came at all was because I thought it'd be rude not to, what with it being only a three-hour flight from Australia.
     
    The place has way surpassed my expectations though. From volcanoes to rainforests to glaciers, some of the scenery I've seen has been utterly bewitching. I love the easy-going 'anything goes' attitute of the Kiwi people too... and the fact that it's not that big a place. Like Britain, you can travel pretty much the length of the country overland in a day.
     
    And I could happily come and live in Wellington - it's an amazing place. My friends from 'back home' who I've hung out with while I've been in Welly, Jonboy and Laura, are certainly loving life here. 
     
    Here's a few other cool things about NZ that I haven't already covered in previous updates on this blog:
     
    - Pirate golf!: In Christchurch, there's a pirate-themed crazy golf course! Yarr!
     
    - Trains: When I got the train from Picton to Christchurch during my time in NZ's south island, the buffet car was out of this world! Far from the grim, over-priced fare on offer on British trains, you could actually order platters of cheeses! The rail system here also has an airline style baggage check-in system, where you drop of your baggage before getting on the train, and then collect it off a conveyor belt when you arrive at your destination!
     
    - The Forest of the Burning Cock!: Sadly I can't remember the exact name.... but in NZ's north island, there's a forest that goes by a Maori name that translates into English as 'fiery penis'! This name was apparently coined hundreds of years ago, after a legendary incident in which a Maori chief stepped too close to a bonfire and managed to singe his todger. You couldn't make it up!
     
    - Crisps: As any right-thinking person will know, crisps are an important part of anyone's diet. And in 'Grain Waves', NZ has some of the finest crisps I've ever had the pleasure of sampling. They're sort of like Frazzles, only come in all sorts of different flavours.
     
    - Rubbish ex-Nottingham Forest players: Hilariously, Scot Gemmill is currently seeing out his career by playing club football in NZ!
     
    - Students: With the academic year in NZ starting in the end of January, there's been a lot of 'freshers' week'-type activity while I've been here. And I must say, Kiwi students are a lot more imaginative with theire high-jinks than their Brit counterparts. Far from lame wheezes like nicking road cones, it's a freshers' week tradition here amongst students to take your sofa out into the street and then set fire to it! Utter madness!
     
    - Conkers: With NZ currently entering the autumn, conker season is very much in full swing here!
     
    - Manuka honey: A lot of you will know that I've suffered for many years with migraines - and one thing that I found to be of benefit for a certain period of time a few years ago was eating a tea spoon of manuka honey every day. Having seemingly found a lifeline, I spent fairly ridiculous amounts of money getting the stuff imported from NZ, where it is made. During my time here though, I've discovered that you can buy jars of the stuff in most supermarkets for pocket change!
     
    - Grounds for Wellington to be officially twinned with the part of Nottingham where I grew up?: Yes, just like Mapperley, downtown Welly has a cafe called 'The Green Parrot Cafe'!
     
    - Australian people: The Kiwis really don't like them very much!
     
    So, farewell then, NZ! I hope I'll be back some day...

    Go and tell the king that the sky is falling in, but it's not... but it's not... but it's not...

     
    Christ on a Bike! I feel like shit!
     
    As you'll know if you read yesterday's update, I'm off to Asia tomorrow. Naturally, it's all very exciting - however, one of the downsides is that I had to start taking my malaria tablets today... and despite the fact that I didn't touch any alcohol last night, it feels like having a particularly nasty hangover.
     
    I only hope my body gets used to the drugs - or else it's going to be a  l-o-n-g  couple of months!
     
    Still, on a more positive note, I've had a very enjoyable couple of days in Wellington since I got back from the epic hiking trip. It was all a bit disorientating when I first got here, being back in a big city after ten days in the wilderness. And it's only when you return to a metropolis after such a trip that it truly starts to dawn on you how dirty and smelly you are!
     
    I spent pretty much all of yesterday here catching up on much-needed sleep! After getting up though in the early evening, I decided to go for a wander - and something quite remarkable happened.
     
    Regular readers of this blog will know that Wellington was my first port of call when I first arrived in New Zealand- and I spent my first few days in the city hanging out with Jonboy and Laura, friends from 'back home' who are currently living out here.
     
    Well yesterday evening, having got out of bed and decided to go for a wander, my immediate priority had been to find a payphone and give Jonboy a ring to see what him and Laura were up to. As it was though, I didn't need to - because literally no more than 30 seconds after walking out of the door of the hostel I was staying in, I walked round the corner and bumped into the pair of them!
     
    In a city of 500,000 people - I mean, what were the chances?!
     
    Anyway, I duly spent the rest of the evening hanging out with the two of them. We ended up wandering into town and to a very cool coffee shop - which, as we unwittingly discovered, gave unrivalled views into the window of a strip club over the road!
     
    Despite seeing the odd pair of dancing legs though, by far the best entertainment was simply sitting watching the world go by - something which confirmed to me that Wellington is a brilliant city.
     
    I had already had my suspicions that this was the case based on the previous weekend I'd spent in Welly - however, I'd thought the vibrancy and liveliness of the place was largely down to the Cuba Street Carnival, which happened to be taking place while I was there.
     
    On this occasion though, there was no carnival - it was just a normal Saturday night. Yet the streets were still abuzz with buskers, jugglers, and all sorts of colourful characters.
     
    And whereas you run the risk of getting the crap kicked out of you in most cities in Britain if you're a bit 'different' and deign to go out on the town on a Saturday night, there seems to be no hint of 'bovver' whatsoever in Welly. Indeed, you really get the feeling that eccentricity is embraced here. Indeed, the one thing that probably underlines this is the existence of 'Blanket Man' - a crazy dreadlocked tramp who is an absolute legend in Wellington!
     
    Sadly I'm yet to spot him - but he's called Blanket Man because he basically sits on the street completely naked, apart from a blanket that he wears as a sort of loin cloth. Best of all though, he's possibly the world's only tramp with an iPod - and apparently he sits there listening to it all day, banging his head to whatever music he's listening to and generally rocking out!
     
    Seriously, if you type 'Blanket Man' and 'Wellington' into Google, loads of stuff about the great man comes up!
     
    Other cool things about Wellington meanwhile include the fact that there's a pizza restaurant called Hell, which is geniusly branded. All of the different pizzas are named after the seven deadly sins... and if you get one as a takeway, it comes in a coffin-shaped box!
     
    Oh, and I've enjoyed a great shag while I've been here too!
     
    Yes, the black shag is a truly fine sea bird - and there are loads of them at Welly's gorgeous Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. This is situated just a short walk from the city centre, and it's an absolute oasis of green... and surrounded by a Rampton Hospital-style metal fence to keep predators out.
     
    Sadly I didn't spot any kiwis on my visit - which is a shame, as they are possibly the coolest-looking birds on the planet! It was hardly surprising though really, given that they're nocturnal and fairly endangered.
     
    I did however see loads of other birds. And the sanctuary puts webcams in some of the birds' nesting boxes - so you can actually sit and watch adult birds feeding their chicks 'live'! This was brilliant, although I felt I'd had my thunder stolen slightly, what with my brother Al and me having had plans for years to set up a website called www.gorgeousbirds.co.uk, where people go to the site and simply get live webcam footage of our respective pet birds!
     
    I bought the domain name ages ago - and the plan has always been to get the site set up, and then stick flyers round all the public payphones in Soho with just www.gorgeousbirds.co.uk printed on them... in the hope that we get loads of dirty old men visiting the site, only for them to end up getting something completely different to what they thought they'd be getting.
     
    I guess there's a lesson there - if you think of a good idea, don't sit on it for years... as someone else will eventually think of it as well and pip you to the post!
    March 10

    Well I would walk five hundred miles, and I would walk five hundred more..!

    When you keep a blog like this and devote time to keeping it updated, you often wonder whether anyone's actually reading it... and if so, whether they find it anything other than a pile of self-indulgent twaddle.

    In view of this train of thought, I've been quite humbled to hear positive noises about my witterings from folks 'back home' in the UK. Best of all, my Auntie Janet has apparently described my ramblings as "better than even Catherine fookin' Cookson"!

    So, I guess I now have a lot to live up to! Fortunately though, I have a lot of good material to draw upon for this latest update. Yes, for having just enjoyed a good night's sleep in a proper bed for the first time in ten days, I now feel I have the mental wherewithal to dish the dirt on what happened on my epic ten-day hiking trip across New Zealand's north island!

    The trip was something I saw advertised when I was down in Christchurch in the south island - and immediately I was like "Wow, that looks ace!"

    It would basically involve being part of a small group, and visiting all of things that I was keen to see in the north island - the volcanoes and the Whirinaki rainforest - plus loads of other cool places besides.

    The only problem was was that it was on Monday 26th February when I saw the advert... and the trip departed from at 7am on Wednesday 28th from Auckland - which is hundreds of miles away, right at the top of the north island!

    It was going to be a bit of a mission to get to Auckland to say the least - and there was also the small matter of me needing to acquire some hiking gear!

    Scenarios such as this provide the occasion downside to my ethos of trying to be as spontaneous as possible in my travels. However, I quickly got my shit together - and come the evening of Tuesday 27th, I found muself on a budget Air New Zealand flight bound for Auckland, and also the proud new owner of a top-of-the-range pair of hiking boots which - unbelievably - I'd found in my exact size in a charity shop for the equivalent of about a tenner!

    So, all good - although unfortunately, the flight was delayed a bit, and then it took bloody ages to get a bus from Auckland airport to the city centre. And then it took me about an hour to find accomodation... by which time it was nearly midnight.

    So, my initial hopes of spending the evening having a quick look round Auckland were dashed - and with the 7am departure the next morning, it meant I never got to see much of the city at all.

    Still, the departure point was right next to one of Auckland's major landmarks - the Skytower. This is hard to miss, what with it apparently being the tallest building in the southern hemisphere. It was here that I got to meet the other seven people taking part in the trip, plus our Kiwi guide, Justin.

    Now with being reasonably fit and having survived the Glastonbury festival seven times in some truly atrocious conditions, I had thought that I'd be more than able to survive a ten-day foray into the big outdoors, However, when I saw the rest of the group, I was a bit worried on first impressions that I might have got myself in too deep! These people, you see, were clearly professionals - all ruddy cheeks, beefy calves, and tooled up to the eyeballs with proper hiking gear.

    Pleasingly though, it also became apparent very quickly that I'd fallen on my feet in terms of getting a great bunch of people to spend the next ten days with. These sorts of trips are always a risk in that sense, as you could easily end up stuck with a right bunch of knob-ends. Happily though, this was far from the case here - with everyone hitting it off instantly, despite the fact that no-one knew each other apart from two members of the group who were a couple.

    It was certainly an interesting mix of people, ranging in age for 20s to late 50s. In terms of nationality, it was also a mixed bag - with me being the sole Brit, along with four Dutch, a German, a Canadian, and an Italian guy so ridiculously suave that he was able to commit the grievous faux pas of wearing sandals and white socks... and yet still look cool!

    Amusingly, one of the Dutch blokes, Nico, bore an uncanny resemblence to William Hague! And even more amusingly, the Canadian dude, Tony, was a dead spit for George W Bush!

    "Wow," I thought. "It's like being on a reality TV show called 'Shit Politicians of Recent Times Go Hiking'!"

    In fact, I shall refer to Tony simply as George W Bush from now on to save confusion, what with the Italian guy having also called Tony.

    So, onto the minibus we got - and I shall now go through what we got up to on each of the ten days...

    Day one

    So, where was it to be first? Volcanoes? Rainforest? Actually no - far less excitingly, we kicked off our adventure by... um, going to the supermarket to get provisions for the next few days.

    This was good though as it got us working as a team right from the start - and after agreeing on a 'kitty' system and each paying in cash, we duly hit the aisles and got stocked up. It was quite funny really - it reminded me of being a student, when four of us would all pile into my mate Ed's car and go shopping together, just because Ed was the only one of us who had wheels and thus the means to save us from dragging our groceries by foot!

    This task having been done, we hit the road for a two-hour drive to our first destination proper - the Whirinaki rainforest. Here, we would be abandoning the van and going hiking - or 'tramping', as the Kiwis amusingly call it - for the rest of the day and the next two days. As such, an important task was to get our bags packed with everything we'd need - our own stuff, plus 'communal' stuff (cooking equipment etc, all supplied by Justin).

    The onus was very much on travelling as lightly as possible - as everything we took would have to be carried for miles upon miles, over sometimes very harsh terrain. As an experienced hiker, Justin's knowledge proved invaluable here - and though he dismissed some of the items we'd packed as ridiculous luxuries when he inspected our packs, I did learn a lot from him in terms of canny ways in which loads can be lightened. For example, rather than take a whole packet of powdered milk, why not just decant some into a plastic bag?

    So there we were, carefully tipping quantities of white powder into little ziplock bags. It must have looked like we were going hiking Pete Doherty style..!

    So, bags packed, we set off. By this time it was mid-afternoon - so we'd only be doing a few hours' hiking for the day before stopping for the evening and setting up camp. Still, this was a nice easy introduction - and I must say, the forest was incredibly impressive. It's actually the very forest that was used as a filming location for the TV series 'Walking With Dinosaurs', and you can see why as it is incredibly jurassic in terms of look and feel... with huge trees up to 50 metres high, and a constant cacaphony of insects.

    In terms of setting up camp - we actually spent the night in a hut! NZ's National Parks, of which the forest is one, are full of these - they're basically cabins with a few beds in them, which hikers can crash in. It's all on a first-come, first-served basis, and you have to pay a nominal amount for the privilege. It's very much down to honesty though whether you actually do - because more often than not, the park wardens don't come and collect your money off you.

    Upon arriving at our hut and dumping our bags, we each divvied up the various jobs that needed doing - such as collecting water from the river for drinking, washing and cooking, and finding firewood to start a campfire. "Wahey, the rescue helicopter will definitely find us now!" cracked Mauritz, one of the Dutch guys - and a self-made dotcom millionaire to boot - as our fire crackled to life. Meanwhile, Italian Tony proved that, as well as being incredibly suave, he was also a great cook - by casually knocking together an amazing spaghetti meal on a camp stove!

    Geniously, he even produced a cafetiere from his backpack and made everyone a 'proper' cup of coffee!

    This was a significant development in the trip actually - as Italian Tony's efforts kicked off some healthy competitiveness among the group in terms of who could cook the best meal.., which saw us eat like kings for the rest of the trip.

     Day two

    Dawn saw me wake up on the porch of the hut, what with George W Bush and me having elected to drag our sleeping bags outside due to the weather having been so mild. Sitting on the porch as the sun rose, I felt like all I needed was a rocking chair and it'd be just like being a bluesman in the deep south!

    Unfortunately though, the day didn't get off to the best of starts, with the shock news that we'd already used up all our supplies of bog roll.

    Already, the idea of going for a dump had been fairly unappealing, due to the fact that it would involve digging our own toilet with a spade! Now though, it had become a positively harrowing prospect!

    As a further crushing blow, a quick stock-take of other supplies revealed that we'd also drunk our entire stock of wine, which we'd (perhaps deludedly!) expected to last for the two nights that we'd be in the forest!

    Still, what doesn't destroy you can only make you stronger - and these woes were quickly forgotten as we set off after a quick breakfast on our first full day of hiking. As we got deeper and deeper into the forest, the terrain became rougher - there were som steep climbs, and also a number of fallen trees to clamber over. Best of all though, there were numerous points on the trek when we had to wade through the river... sometimes at points where the water was so high that we had to take our packs off and hold them above our heads!

    Though Justin had shown us at length the best ways to cross the river, it was a bit stressful the first few times - not least due to the initial shock of the icyness of the water, and the surprisingly strong current! I nearly slipped on a couple of occasions, and though we'd carefully wrapped everything in our packs in plastic, did find myself wondering whether my travel insurance would cover a drowned iPod!

    By the end of the day though we were taking the river crossings in our stride... although I was sort of disappointed in a way that no-one took a tumble!

    Needless to say, we were all quite wet by the time we called it a day and set up camp for the night at a another hut and tried to dry our socks! Resourcefully, we had some success in this by using them as oven gloves! 

    It had certainly been a tough day - pretty much a full eight hours of walking, with just occasional breaks for snacks. All good fun though!

    Day three

    By now, I must say, I was starting to feel like a marine in Vietnam, fighting his way through the jungle!

    After getting up and having breakfast, having to put our wet boots back on to continue the hike wasn't a great moment - though Justin did make this slightly more bearable by ingeniously pouring hot water into them!

    This was to be our last day in the forest - and by now, we'd all learned quite a lot about the place, in terms of both its wildlife and plants.

    Wildlife-wise, we were quite lucky on this day - as we spotted both blue ducks, and also a type of parrot called a kaka. Apparently the forest is also home to a flightless parrot - the only kind in the world! Apparently it just wanders around in the undergrowth and digs for bugs with its wings... although sadly, we didn't see any. Or any kiwis for that matter, either!

    In terms of plants, Justin also pointed out a number of interesting types - most significantly, a type of weed called onga onga, which is so poisonous that it's actually been known to kill people. It was useful to know this - however, knowing its potency did start to make you paranoid that any plant bearing even the vaguest resemblence might be onga onga!

    We also discovered that the forest has a plant that has a nasty habit of tangling itself around hikers. Amusingly, it's called 'bush lawyer'- so named because, like real-life lawyers, it's a pain in the arse! 

    Day three also saw us get a bit of rain - only fitting really, what with us being in a rainforest! The canopy of trees is so thick though that the downpour didn't really affect us - though it was amazing to see the steam rising off the tps of the trees.

    And while we remained generally dry, our feet certainly got wet again - as there were more river crossings. This included having to scramble about ten feet up a fairly steep waterfall.

    By the end of the day we'd successfully reached the end of the trek, where Justin had arraged for our van to be delivered so we could hop straight in and move on. We were certainly glad to see the vehicle - not least because the trailer on the back contained all our supplies, and we'd pretty much ran out of food a few hours previously and were having to sustain ourselves on raw Weetabix!

    Hilariously, Mauritz - clearly having not grasped the isolation of the forest - had actually suggested, in all seriousness, getting his mobile phone out and calling for a pizza!

    Next destination then was the nearby town of Rotorua. This is a hotspot of volcanic activity in NZ, with lots of thermal pools and such-like. Justin duly took us to one of these, and we duly spend a good hour enjoying a good soak in 'nature's jacuzzi'. This was amazing, although the skin-tight trunks donned by Andreas - the German member of the group - were slightly terrifying! And we all stank of sulphur for quite some time after getting out of the pool and heading to our campsite, where much innuendo-based amusenent was had in putting up the tents in which we slept for the night ("Ooh, grab my pole!" etc).

    I must say, I slept well after all the rigours of the previous few days- though there was one point in the night when I heard some loud rustling outside my tent and decided to get up to investigate. I was duly confronted by the sight of a small rodenty animal vigorously attacking a rubbish bag that we'd forgotten to put in the campsite bins - not sure exactly what it was, but from my description Justin was adamant that it was either a stoat or a weasel!

    'Stoat' and 'weasel', it must be said, are both pretty good words!

    Day four

    This day saw us take a break from hiking - though that's not to say it wasn't strenuous. For our mission was to spend the day rowing all the way across a stunning lake and back in kayaks, beneath the shadow of a massive volcano called Mount Tarwera.

    Now there is only one person in the world who has witnessed me attempting to row. She may well be reading this - so I can't pretend that I'm anything other than utterly shite at it! 

    The kayaks in question were two-man ones, and after getting kitted up in our kayaking skirts - in which we all looked pretty ridiculous! - I decided to team up with Italian Tony. This was not, in hindsight, a shrewd move - as amazingly, he turned out to be even worse than me! The fact that we were both a bit hungover from copious amounts of wine quaffed the previous evening didn't help either - and after paddling little more than a mile, I honestly thought I was going to pass out!

    With a mere five miles to go to get to the other side of the lake, it seemed impossible that we'd actually manage to make it there and back! At one point, we were so desperate that Tony - a bit of a lothario to say that least - initiated a cunning plan of paddling over to a group of girls who were buzzing around the lake on a speedboat, and seeing if we could chat them up and get them to tow us!

    Amazingly they failed to fall for the twin barrage of Nottingham-Milan charm - possibly because Tony's English vocabulary consists of little more than "Is good!", "Is beautiful!" and "Shit!"

    Slowly but surely though, the far side of the lake loomed into view. And after a good hour's rest and a spot of lunch - where we were joined by a pair of scavenging black swans! - we suddenly felt far more energetic, and managed to make the return journey in probably double the time that the outbound slog took. 

    We were bloody knackered though by the time we got back to the van - and after a quick stop to look at some thermal mud pools*, we both flaked out as soon as we got to the campsite where Justin had arranged for us to stay for the night. Here, like a doofus, I managed to electrocute myself on an electric fence separating the site from an adjacent farm! We did cook our dinner on an open fire though, which was pretty cool... 

    Day five

    Waking up and popping my head out my tent, the first thing I saw was George W Bush tossing furiously.

    Possibly not the ideal image to start your day, you might think - however, I hasten to add that the tossing in this case was all in the name of making blueberry pancakes for the whole group.

    A fine start to the day - which saw a lot of driving as we made the journey in the van to Tongariro National Park.

    Aforesaid national park is basically a mountain ranges, including three huge volcanoes - Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Ruapehu is actually best known for having been used as 'Mount Doom' in the recent 'Lord of the Rings' films!

    By the time we arrived it was mid-afternoon... and as with the rainforest trek, we abandoned the van and set off with our backpacks stuffed with enough supplies to survive in the wilderness for the next two nights. And not wanting to be caught short again, this time we packed six litres of wine!

    It quickly became apparent that this hike would be completely different to the rainforest hike. Rather than dense forest, the scenery we got to enjoy this time was stark foothills made up of volcanic matter from previous occasions when the volcanoes have erupted - the most recent instance having been Ngauruhoe in 1996.

    By the evening we reached a hut where, after getting a traditional Maori greeting off the hut warden, we set up camp for the night in the shadow of the volcanoes.

    Some of us, having gotten into the whole camping thing the previous two nights, actually decided to sleep outside in tents. I must say though, I perhaps underestimated how much colder it would be at the altitude we were - approximately 1,000 metres above sea level. Yes, it was bloody freezing! Still, you live and you learn!

    Day six

    This day saw us take a hike around a huge valley at the base of 'Mount Doom', before ending up back at another hut for the night.

    The walk was really good - though being among the mountains, I did find myself thinking on a number of occasions that it'd be cool to be able to yodel!

    Worrying!

    With part of the walk being a circuit, we decided to hide our backpacks behind some rocks, and collect them when we returned to the same point later on.  It certainly felt like a luxury to be able to walk without our packs - however, the downside was that they ended up feeling twice as heavy when we returned to them... and we ended up struggling for the last few miles.

    Italian Tony also nearly lost one of his boots! This drama occurred when we had to make a river crossing. With it being just the one crossing of the day, we decided to do it barefootto save getting our boots and socks soaked - and I came up with the idea of throwing our boots across the river.

    This idea went down well - unfortunately though, Italian Tony didn't quite throw one of his quite hard enough - and rather than landing safely on the other side, it hit the top of the bank and bounced back towards the river, landing periously close to the edge.

    I must say, I've never seen an Italian man wade across a river quite so fast! Fortunately, Tony managed to grab his boot just before it got swept away by the current.

    So, a bit of light comic relief - however, one thing that definitely wasn't funny was when we saw what we thought was the hut on the horzon. "Hallalujah!" we all thought! Alas though, it turned out that the building in question was merely a toilet - and the hut ended up being another couple of miles. Uphill miles as well!

    Still, spirits were lifted when we finally got there by Italian Tony cooking up another storm in the kitchen - and after putting on every single item of clothing that I'd brought with me, including the thermal long johns that I'd vowed only to break out in the direst of emergencies, I'm pleased to say that I got a good night's sleep without freezing my arse off, unlike the previous night!

      Day seven

    This day saw a ridiculously early start, with everybody up at 5.45am. It was a bit like a scene from a Charles Dickens novel, seeing the gang all eating breakfast by candlelight. There was a good reason though for being up at such an unholy hour - namely, the fact that we were going to attempt to climb 'Mount Doom' - and needed to allow ourseves plenty of time to do so... not least because it was a FIVE hour walk from our walk to the starting point of the climb!

    It seems crazy walking five hours to something you can actually see! That said, there was no guarantee that we'd get to climb it at all - it all very much depended on the weather conditions. And sadly, just a couple of hours into the five-hour hike, Justin made the decision that it was too cloudy and therefore too risky.

    It was a shame - however, all was not lost, because there was not a cloud in the sky over Tongariro... and after a slight change of route, we suddenly found ourselves climbing that instead.

    Now I've never climbed a mountain before, and at 1,967 metres, Tongariro is a pretty big one! Needless to say, it was hard work - though the scenery was absolutely stunning. From a great height, the foothills looked like the surface of the moon. Around three-quarters of the way to the top, you got a stunning view of three beautiful sapphire blue lakes - and it felt really triumphant when, after two hours of climbing, we finally got to the summit, with its amazing bright red crater.

    It was quite humbling though to think that,  although to us it had felt like a huge achievement getting to the top, Tongariro is actually less than a quarter the size of Mount Everest! Still, we spent a good half an hour at the top, just enjoying the moment... though it was pretty cold up there, and we soon decided it'd be an idea to start heading back down the other side. There were quite a few other hikers who had successfully conquered the peak too - including, amazingly, two girls wearing just hotpants, T-shirts and flip-flops!

    Now we were all wearing at least four or five layers, and we weren't exactly warm... so goodness knows how much these two lasses were freezing their arses off!

    Mind you, they were from Scotland... so it was probably like a warm spring day to them!

    Unsurprisingly, it took a lot less time to climb down Tongariro than it did to climb up! Part of the way down, there's an amazing natural ampitheatre, framed on all four sides by mountains. It was a great spot to have lunch - though rather than simply eulogising the natural beauty of the scenery, it probably said something about the mentality of our group that it took us about ten minutes to come to a consensus that it was a shame we didn't have a football with us so we could have a kickabout on the remarkably smooth surface!

    As it was though, this didn't stop us - because having decided that an empty plastic water bottle would suffice as a 'ball', we threw down some jumpers for goalposts and quickly organised a match! Six of the group were up for playing - and with three of them from the Dutch contingent, we decided to make it 'Holland versus the Rest of the World'. Pleased to report that I opened the scoring for the Rest of the World, and celebrated by diving full length onto my belly - possibly the first goal celebration in history that's resulted in the scorer being covered in volcanic ash! Alas though, the Johan Cruyff-patented 'total football' of the Dutch saw them turn things round and take a 3-1 lead, before the match was abandoned after Italian Tony decided to wander off the pitch to try and chat up a group of clearly bemused girls who had come to watch! 

    So, a suitably surreal moment before we continued the climb, and then hiked to the car-park where Justin had arranged for the van to be left. We then had the rare treat of staying the night in a cottage - where we were able to have our first showers in nearly a week! Though it says a lot about how feral we'd all became by this point that, by the end of the evening, we all ended up sat round the table quaffing wine by candlelight - despite having lights that we could simply turn on by the flick of a switch! 

    Day eight

    After our achievement in conquering Tongariro, this day saw us get another break from hiking - with us getting to explore a huge cave!

    Just getting into the cave was quite a challenge - you had to go down quite a steep drop, hanging onto just a rope! It was a bit scary, but well worth it once we got in - with loads of passages to explore, and glow worms and stalagtites everywhere.

    The cave was basically beneath the side of a hill - and when we came out, we had to hike through some woods that were full of really thick hanging vines. Going downhill, I naturally couldn't resist going for a bit of a Tarzan swing - though rather lamentably, I lost my grip and ended up falling from about six feet in the air and landing in a heap in some bushes.

    Not very graceful really!

    The afternoon meanwhile saw Justin drive us to a deserted beach, where we set up camp. Justin then gave us a live demonstration of a Hangi - which is a traditional form of cooking that has been used by NZ's Mauri people for centuries.

    Basically, this involves digging a fairly big hole in the sand, making a huge fire in it, and then using the fire to heat up some stones. As soon as the fire has burnt out, you then throw a load of foil-wrapped** food in the hole with the by-now-hot stones, refill the hole with the sand, and then leave it for a couple of hours.

    This essentially works the same as a pressure cooker - only a pressure cooker that gives you an excuse to laze around on a beach drinking wine for two hours prior to dinner! Which is no bad thing!

    And neither was the food - in fact, it was delicious... particularly the sweet potatoes and the pumpkin. We were all glad though that Justin had checked the tide times though before starting the Hangi - the last time he'd done one, he forgot, and apparently everyone had to frantically build a massive dam in front of it out of sand to stop the food from being washed away!

    Days nine and ten

    Unbelievably, this day saw us have the luxury of a lie-in! It felt like we were on holiday after all!

    After having breakfast meanwhile and packing up all the tents, we were back in the van for a fairly long drive to our last major destination - Mount Egmont National Park, which is where the film 'The Last Samuri' was filmed. Here, we'd be climbing our second mountain of the trip - another volcano called Fantam's Peak.

    Unlike Tongariro, we actually climbed this volcano in two parts. First of all, after arriving at the park and getting our gear together, we hiked for a couple of hoursto a hut located on the actual side of the volcano - where we duly set up camp for the night, and had our last evening meal together.

    It was quite sad really - we'd all bonded really well as a group by this point, and were comfortable enough with each other that we could take the piss out of each other and play pranks on each other mercilessly. Still, all good things must come to an end - but what a spectacular end this was!

    The remaining part of the climb saw another early start, to enable us to stop part of the way up to watch sunrise at 7am. This was spectacular - and unbelievably, we were so high up that we could actually see the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park on the horizon, a good 100 miles away.

    After enjoying sunrise, we continued inching our way up Fantam's Peak. Although seven metres shy of Tongariro in height, Fantam's Peak is a much more difficult climb - even without our backpacks (which we'd left at the hut, seeing as we'd be coming back down the same way we came up). The reason why it's tougher is because the terrain is much more difficult - a lot of it being fine volcanic ash that's difficult to get a foothold into. A lot of the time, I found I was just scrambling in the ash without making any progress at all - though we persevered and evntually made it all the way to the top.

    The view was amazing - it reminded me of the bit in 'Watership Down' where the rabbits get to the top of a hill and one of them goes "I can see the whole world!" It was weird being higher than some of the clouds - and I also got to touch some snow for the first time in 2007 (haha, sorry to those of you back in freezing Britain - that was a bit below the belt!)

    Going down the mountain was a lot of fun too - due to the fine ash, we found that the easiest way was to simply slide down our our arses!

    We also continued this theme when the terrain turned to grass - it was a bit like doing the Gloucester cheese race all over again.

    It was brilliant - though I did nearly clobber Nico with a Stuart Pearce-esque tackle from behind when he suddenly stopped in front of me as I came hurtling down! On a less happy note though, I did rip a massive hole in my trousers - one of only two pairs I have with me on this travel adventure!

    This is why I currently have a huge yellow square of gaffa tape on the arse of my kecks! Who knows, maybe it'll start a trend?!

    There was also a funny moment just the hut suddenly loomed into view. A few of the group, including George W Bush, had decided to opt out of climbing all the way to the top... deciding instead to go back to the hut and wait for the rest of us there. 'Dubya' happened to be standing at the back of the hut as we came hurtling into view - and as you do, he saluted our arrival by dropping his kecks and giving us a full moon! 

    So, after recovering from the shock of seeing the hairy arse of the world's most powerful man, and collecting our stuff from the hut and making our way down the rest of the mountain, it was back to the van and then a long drive down to our finishing point - Wellington.A lot of the group slept for most of this journey, although I wasn't able to, having long since established myself as the DJ of the trip - an important responsibility that involved me riding shotgun in the front of the van with Justin and playing tunes on my iPod.

    We eventually arrived back into Wellington late last night - where for most of us, it was straight to bed for some well-earned sleep at the various dives we'd booked ourselves into.

    A fantastic trip though, and one which I won't forget for a long time. And despite my initial worries, I took to hiking likea duck to water, having no problem keeping up with the group and in fact being near the front for most of the walks. And we did a lot of miles - on average, about ten during each of the days when we were on our feet all day. Though talking about the distances we covered in terms of miles alone doesn't really do the walks justice - there's also the harsh terrain we had to endure to take into account.  

    It was certainly a great way to see some of the most spectacular parts of a spectacular country. And it really gave you a feel for how isolated parts of NZ are. Particularly the rainforest - during the walk through there, we didn't see a single other person.

    Fun as it all was though, I am glad that I've now got a couple of days though to just laze about in Wellington before I move onto the next chapter of my adventure - Asia..! 

     * Al - these were like 'The Bog of Eternal Stench' in The Labyrinth!

    ** Using foil was cheating a bit, as the Mauri people actually wrapped their food in leaves!

    March 09

    Woah-oh! I'll climb any mountain! Woah-oh, I'll do anything..!

     
    Hi all - just a quick message to say that I'm not dead! No, the lack of updates in the last few weeks is more to do with the fact that there aren't that many internet cafes in the rainforests or up the mountains here in New Zealand!
     
    Funny, that!
     
    Just to say though that I'm now back in civilisation after my epic ten day hiking trip into the wilderness. Had an amazing time - full update will be on here soon... but for now, all I wanna do is sleep!!!